Compared to the other two classes, knitted fabrics are much more elastic,
which accounts for their historical use in stockings and other clothing that
requires changes in shape.
Hence, dresses and lingerie made from knitted fabrics can be more form-fitting than
counterparts made from a woven fabric. Knitted fabrics can stretch, depending on their
material and knitting pattern, up to 500 percent of their original size.
Lace knitting generally produces the most flexible fabric, since it has large holes that can
deform in shape; by contrast, cable knitting generally produces the least flexible fabric,
since the stitches are crossed under tension, which inhibits deformation.
Knitted fabrics that do not deform much are called stable knits. For comparison,
woven fabrics typically deform only along their bias direction–i.e., at 45° to the warp
and weft directions–and only by a small amount; however, a woven fabric made
with a stretchable material such as Lycra may deform more than a stable knit.
The elasticity of knitted fabrics gives them an excellent drape,
but this is opposed somewhat by their generally greater thickness compared to wovens.
Thus, the turn of the cloth (i.e., the maximum curvature of a fold of the fabric) is generally
finer in woven fabrics than in knitted fabrics. For this reason, knitted fabrics resist wrinkles
better than wovens, but do not generally take a crease.
Knitted fabrics are generally warmer and more comfortable than woven fabrics,
which is why they are worn closer to the body. Moreover, knitted fabrics are often
made from wool, which stays warm even when wet; wool is preferred since
it is more elastic than most fibers and produces more even, beautiful knits.
In general, elasticity and warmth are opposing qualities in a knitted fabric,
since the most elastic knitted fabrics, such as lace, have the largest holes
and are thus less insulating.
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